Random work - form work, nogging for services, steel portals, framing

Head Flashings

 This image shows one of the head flashings I made and helped to install. The headflashing needed to be long enough to cover the window and the scribers on either side of the window. The purpose of the head flashing is to divert water from the top of the window frame over the face of the window and around the outside of the scribers. In this way no water is permitted to enter the building line through the cavity into which the window has been inserted.

Form Work

Form Work

The images below show some of the form work that was done under the lift shaft, These pictures were taken when I was breaking out the building side of the hole. We eventually dug it out to a depth of 450mm and inserted the steelwork as specified by the engineer. This was followed by concrete and a 200mm concreter nib around the base of the walls to provide flood protection to the inside of the building

Cladding, Building Wrap and Cavity Batten

Exterior Wrap and Cladding

I participated in the building of the bulkheads on the outside of this building. This included building the boxes, wrapping them and laying in channels that take the internal guttering. I also worked on attaching the cavity batten that the linear board is nailed to. I also participated in the attachment of the cladding. Examples of all of this work can be seen in the following images.

Explanation of work

The building wrap is applied directly over the framing timber. All the external framing timber is H3.2 on this job. The building wrap is weather proof providing ventalation out of the building but no penetration of air or water into the building. This is your last layer of protection from water. The next layer of proteciton is provided by the cavity battens. These are H3.2. They are fixed to the studs of the framing using galvanised nails. The idea of the cavity is to create a gap between the outside layer (linear board) and the inside layer of water protection (the building paper). This system is designed so that any water that penetrates the linear board then runs down the cavity battens and exits the cavity via a perforated plastic channel that runs along the bottom of the cavity battens.

The top layer of weather protection is the linear weather board. These are heavy duty linear boards that when painted provide an effective barrier against the penetration of moisture into the cavity. 

In all, the three layered system is deemed suitable to provide protection to framing from moisture thus preventing issues such as those experienced in leaky homes.

This image is of a lift shaft that we built. We are currently cladding it in linear weather board with copper soakers

Breaker and grinder I used to remove old concrete, boxing and steelwork.

Floor and Ceiling Framing- Joists, Hangers, Floorboards, Nogs

Floor Framing

This picture shows the product we have been using to lay the floor. It is a particle board product designed for use in enclosed spaces. That is to say it is not the type designed for use on building projects where flooring is exposed to the elements for a long period. It comes in 1200mm x 3600mm sheets. Some things to remember:

• Put cut edges to the wall
• Stagger sheet joins
• Screw every 300 along and across the sheet. 150mm apart on joins
• Don't glue joins to avoid glue coming out the joins as it goes off.

In this case we fixed the flooring down to floor 190mm x 50mm joists spaced at 300mm centers. This meant that we didn't have to nog for fixing. We just nogged the centerline of each span. Each span was roughly 2800 long between steel I beam frames.

Ceiling Framing

This picture shows the ceiling of the second level of the build. The joists are 150 x 45 spanning between 190 x 45 rafters which have been nailed and bolted to the existing rafters of the building which run perpendicular to the ceiling joists. All joists in this build are fixed with  120mm joist hangers or HandiBracs where joist hangers can't be used. This can be seen in the picture above. The Joist on the left is tight against an existing component of the rafters so a Handy Bracket is used instead of a Joist Hanger.